Attentive Silence and Ripe Figs

This moment I'm sitting in is a good one.  I put in a full, good day of work, and I now sit in one of my favorite, shabby little coffee shops near the Ross Island Bridge.  SE Grind is always full of people, mostly students with laptops, late night coffee, sweatpants, and curly hair so luscious it could make you cry.  This is a moment of stirring yerbe matte tea in a white ceramic cup with an old spoon, a moment of cold noses and warm hats, gentle sounds and bright lights, strange art and familiar strangers.

It's a moment set aside to pause, appreciate the warm teacup in my hands, and contemplate the year unfolding in front of me.

Never in my lifetime have I run short of ideas.  Ironically, too many ideas and interests have a way of stilling forward motion.  Sylvia Plath captured it perfectly in The Bell Jar:

"I saw my life branching out before me like the green fig tree in the story.  From the tip of every branch, like a fat purple fig, a wonderful future beckoned and winked.  One fig was a husband and a happy home and children, and another fig was a famous poet and another fig was a brilliant professor, and another was Ee Gee, the amazing editor, and another fig was Europe and Africa and South American, and another fig was Constantin and Socrates and Attila and apack of other lovers with queer names and offbeat professions, and another fig was an Olympic lady crew champion, and beyond and above these figs were many more figs I couldn't quite make out.  I saw myself sitting in the crotch of this fig tree, starving to death, just because I couldn't make up my mind which of the figs I would choose.  I wanted each and every one of them, but choosing one meant losing all the rest, and, as I sat there, unable to decide, the figs began to wrinkle and go black, and, one by one, they plopped to the ground at my feet."

It's been pretty discouraging, especially because God's only recent input has been a teasing, 'Do not pass Go, do not collect $200.'*  That made me balk for a bit - was God telling me that I need to stay in America for 2 years? 10 years? Forever?  I've wrestled and wondered, trying to avoid worry, to narrow down options and plans.  And all the while, God has been so quiiiiiiiiiiet....

This weekend I crossed paths with family friend I've never met before, a lovely woman, who has apparently been following my writing over the past couple of years.  As we talked, I felt God's attention.  It wasn't a directive, a correction, or a divine pity for my frustration.  It was more like God broke the silences and said, 'Uh-huh, I'm listening.'  The acknowledgement was like a deep breath of cold, fresh air. For the past year, I've felt frustrated and isolated by God's silence.  It's only in this moment that I realize the best listeners don't say anything.  I've had a lot to say.

I intended to take this post in another direction, but I think this is where I'm supposed to leave it - sometimes God is silent because He's intently listening to you.  It isn't the silence of abandonment, it's a gift of gentleness.

"You have given me the shield of your salvation,

and your right hand supported me,

and your gentleness made me great."

Psalm 18:35 (ESV)

The deepest loves I've ever known were nourished with a soft vulnerability, the byproduct of consistent gentleness.  It builds up the muchness of a person, the substance, the essence.  This kind of gentleness isn't inspired by pity, but intimacy.  I've shared the closeness of silence with my dearest of friends, but never before with my God.  A new discovery within my oldest relationship.  Remarkable.

*Apparently God cheats at Monopoly.

Fall 2014 Update

Autumn is the best season for starting new things.  I’ve always loved this season best – it has the best food, most comfortable clothes, the prettiest variety of colors.  New school supplies were always a highlight growing up.  Even now I have a high appreciation for a fresh notebook with supple paper and a pen that glides smoothly.  For the first time in a long time, I find myself drawn back to writing, seduced by the autumn atmosphere in my home country for the first time in three years.

I must admit that my return to the United States hasn’t gone completely according to plan.  Though I have full-time work, I’m not in a classroom, which is saddening.  I’m a teacher in a salesperson’s clothes….but luckily they’re very nice clothes.  My wardrobe is looking much better now that I’ve landed a management position at Chico’s.  It was timely change considering that I’ve lost over 30 lbs since June.  (So fun!)  It’s also a strange change – only once in my adult life have I been this fit.  I’m finding all kinds of angles and edges to my body that I’ve never had before.  Losing my fat cushion reveals that I’m more of a klutz than I realized.  I find bruises all over from countertops and tables that are harder than they used to be.

My dating life got a bit of a jumpstart this summer.  I decided that after two years in China, my social circles had dwindled and I wanted to meet people.  After a few weeks of emailing on match.com, I had a whirlwind of dates like I’ve never experienced before.  I quickly learned marathon dating was NOT MY STYLE, so I put the kibosh on that and started scheduling more coffee dates with old friends.

This has also been the summer of weddings.  One summer I remember attending seven weddings.  SEVEN.  This summer there were only three, but they were significant family weddings filled with high highs, low lows, countless carbs, and many happy tears.  They’ve left me with a stack of pictures, memories, and a new sister!

I’m reveling in autumn, family, smooshy sweaters, and clothes off the rack with long enough sleeves.  I’m drinking in the fresh air, smooth coffee, and the sound of rain.  I literally got tears of joy the other day over a croissant that croissant-ed to perfection.  It’s been good to be back.

And yet.

It’s strange that I’m not boarding a plane.  I miss being around people who considering relocating a normal part of life.  I miss my Chinese friends, and I keep thinking I see people from my apartment complex everywhere.   I miss cold street noodles, cheap supermarkets, sanrenche (3 wheeled bikes), and CRAZY DRIVERS.  Mostly I mix expatriats, people committed to living as an ethnic and cultural ‘other’ because it’s worth it.  It’s hard, tiring, fascinating, humbling, and quite possibly one of the most rewarding things a person can do.  I miss meeting that kind of person.  Part of me was afraid that I’d lose that part of myself, the learner, the risk taker, the I’ll-figure-out-whatever-happens-because-it’s-completely-beyond-my-control side of me.  I talked with my neighbor about it as I prepared to leave China.  He just said, “Naaaah.  You’ve got it in your blood now, living overseas.  You’ll go again.”  It was a comfort to me then, and even now as I try to assimilate.

American culture is tough.  Productivity is expected at every moment.  A person’s emotional dynamics are much more varied, vivid, and projected, which is fun, but exhausting.  The pace of life has been the hardest to adapt to, and driving is less fun than it used to be.

And then there’s this:

I’m tired of hearing people complain about non-English speakers.  Leaving one’s home country and acclimating to life elsewhere is mind-boggling, challenging, adventurous, and extremely challenging.  Not speaking a language is not a mental deficiency or being deliberately obtuse.  It’s also not something that can be remedied with a few months of hard work.  On the contrary, not speaking the local language demands that a person constantly use practical problem-solving skills and creative deductions every single hour of every single day.  Complaining about people who don’t speak English in America shows complete ignorance about the challenges they overcome every day.  It’s also pretty selfish.  English is the trade language of our era.  It’s common for people to learn it as a secondary language.  However, it’s not moral failing if they don’t.  Come on ‘muricans.  Don’t be such a bunch of whiners.  Learn a language.

That’s one of the goals I’m choosing for myself before I move on again.  I expect to be in America for a while, but I know my international work isn’t over yet.  I spent two years in China.  China was good to me, and I wouldn’t trade the experience for anything!  I fully expect to work overseas again, though I doubt China is the destination.

But now, now I prepare.  My feet are happily planted here for the nonce, but my vision looks outward with hope.

This Is My Life

Beetles.  Scorpions. Locusts.  Centipedes.  Frogs.  Sheep testicles.

This may sound like a line-up of Fear-Factor challenges, but it was actually the MENU of dinner last weekend!  The university hosted a faculty trip to Kaifeng, which is known locally for a great night market and good food.  Apparently "good food" actually means mind-blowing I-can't-believe-people-eat-this type food.  I wandered around gajillion food stalls and watched hundreds of snacks get boiled, fried, pounded, seasoned and served.

I limited myself to new encounters only, looking for new stories to

tell....and wow, did I find a few!  Insects definitely have a crunchy factor, but the taste was actually pretty good - fried, crunchy, spicy - really not so bad as long as you could get over the fact that you were eating wings.  My favorite were the beetles.  The centipede proved challenging when one of my friend's got a leg stuck in his teeth.  It took him almost a full minute to disentangle it.  You know that terrible mental image you just got of the dangling bug?  I got to witness that firsthand.

The biggest challenge for most was the sheep testicles.  Frankly, we

aren't sure if it was sheep or goat, but we ARE sure which organ it was.  Carefully sliced, scored, chopped, boiled, then stir-fried in delicious ways, but even the food vendor was surprised to see a blue-eyed white chick order it.  We passed it around the table, challenging each other to try a bite.  As it turns out, the real challenge was chewing it...and chewing, and chewing, and chewing....

I've been terrible about updating my blog lately - my sincerest apologies - but I just HAD to tell the world about this little adventure!

Bible Blitz

New Year's resolutions are a good thing.  Somehow, mine tend to solidify a week or so after New Year's, which kind of defeats the purpose.  A new year, a new start....unless of course, you're a little late.  Luckily for me, there is not one, but TWO New Year's Days in China: January 1st, and January 31st (this year).*  By the time we got to the second New Year's Eve, my list was ready.

My little house dressed up for New Year's

As usual, one of the items to make the list is 'Read the Bible regularly.  Teaching has taught me the value of clearly defined goals.  Knowing my propensity and love for intense projects and extremes, I came up with a plan I've affectionately dubbed, "The Bible Blitz."  In the month of February, I'll attempt to read the entire Bible, roughly 300+ chapters per week.

Disclaimer

This is not a good way to study the Bible.  It's important to take time to reflect, ponder and pray as you read.  My long-term goal is to build Bible-reading into a habitual part of my day.  I don't suggest reading this quickly.

Bible reading (like so much of life) is like coffee.  The sweetest, richest, most caffeinated coffee is cold brew, which soaks for a loooooong time.  French press is hot, and full bodies, and brews about 7-8 minutes.  The coffee is ground finer and finer for each method of brewing, until you reach the espresso stage.  It takes 13-20 seconds to pull two shots of espresso, the caffeinated equivalent of a cup of coffee.  Similarly, the richest and most rewarding way to study the Bible is when you take your time.  Sucking down several large mugs of espresso every day is a terrible way to live!  But a bit won't hurt.  One month of blitzing through giant cups of Biblical espresso.  Yes.  This is what's happening.

The Bible I brought to China was a translation recommended to me by one of my favorite professors, The New Jerusalem Bible.  This is my first time reading some of the apocrypha!**  As a protestant, I've been raised with a Bible that has 36 books in the Old Testament, and 27 books in the New Testament.  These new additions pose a few problems.

1. It messes up the books-of-the-Bible song I learned when I was 7.  I sing this song in my mind every time I look something up!  This also makes it difficult to know their relative position within the published text.
2. The books of the Bible aren't in chronological order.  Unless it's explicitly stated, I may not be able to place where in history the story is taking place, which is huge drawback.
3. I've been taught to doubt the authenticity of the apocrypha.  I will need to weigh this teaching carefully, or it may color my ability to accept the text well.  It's amazing how many church fathers debated the veracity of different portions of scripture.  Luther even doubted the canonicity of the Gospels!
4. I've never been taught what I "should learn" from these scriptures.  Frankly, I find this a little exciting!  For the first time, I'm coming to the Bible as an adult without preconceptions or memories of sermons, good and bad.  I get to experience what new Christians think and feel, and draw my own conclusions. (Which I will verify in March once I have time to research.)  It's going to be great!

I created a reading schedule based roughly on theme, chronology, and breaking up the books I find monotonous.***  The apocryphal books were scattered at random, a wild card or two for each week.  The plan ended up looking like this.

The first picture shows my weekly reading goals. The second pictures delineates exactly how many chapters I should read each day.  As per most Bible-reading plans, I decided to divvy up Psalms and Proverbs to get a little poetic goodness every day.

February will be a month of reading, praying, preparing for this semester and the upcoming transition coming this fall.  I am entirely aware that I'm likely to fail at this massive reading binge.  But even if I fail, I'll still be spending hours in the Bible.  I don't see a loss.



*My brother wished me a "Happy fake New Year's" that morning, which made me laugh!  Chinese New Year is based on the lunar calendar, which I have a hard time wrapping my mind around.  Instead of being based on the earth's rotation around the sun, it's based on the moon's rotation around the earth. It doesn't align with the solar calendar, so it's hard for me to figure out.  Luckily there are cell phones apps for that kind of thing.  Take a look at this Lunar Calendar Description and this Moon Phase Calendar.
**Take the time to follow this link!
***All scripture is valuable.  Not all of it is interesting.  Look into your heart.  You know this is true.  If you disagree, you must have not read the entire pentateuch.

The Birds of St Sophia

I'm currently sitting in Haerbin China, sipping a Chestnut macchiato in Starbucks, looking out the window.  The sky is clear and blue, with sunlight glinting off the curved copper domes topping Russian buildings.  My toes are painfully numb, while my hands are swelling with the sudden heat of this delectable macchiato.  I hope for the sake of Americans everywhere that chestnut flavoring is not limited to Chinese consumers.  I try to savor it slowly while my toes come back to life.  Hordes of Chinese traipse up and down Center street, while buses trundle under thin metals arches that span the road lined with spindly, naked trees.  As I wandered the city taking pictures yesterday, I noticed that I passed over buildings and monuments in favor of the winter trees.  I have always found leafless trees impossibly beautiful, their exposed skeletons lacing in a myriad of intricate patterns, the structure and strength of the tree refusing to die in the cold.  In a bare tree, willpower and hope are enmeshed.  Outside this window, I see a giant ice sculpture next to a Russian bakery. This American coffee shop is next to my favorite clothes-store in Asia, which is Japanese.  The street is lined with Chinese restaurants and culminates in a town square featuring beautiful St. Sophia, an old brick church topped with dark green domes sprouting golden crosses.  An old Chinese woman sells bags of corn for the birds - I can almost hear her say 'tuppence a bag.'  At her whistle, a flock of white doves take wing, swirling around the spires perfectly synchronized.  My toes are warm enough to feel now.  There are few moments in life as delightful as this!

The K-Train

The Kattle Train.  The Krap Train.

The faces of my fellow laowai filled with the Spirit of K-trains past. "Ugh, full of farmers who don't read signs." "They'll smoke on board." "It's full of Chinese." "You'll stand the whole way." "The toilets overflow."  Then they asked "Hard-sleeper or soft sleeper?"  "Hard-seat," I said.  The stunned, blank silence told me everything I needed to know: I had scheduled the Train of Doom.*

I had no problem maintaining my enthusiasm despite their grimacing smiles, but I began mentally preparing myself.  I imagined a wood paneled interior with unpadded wood seats, propping my feet up on my backpack for thirty hours** as a round, middle aged man named Li yells over the din to his family sitting on the other side of the car. I brainstormed (as always) ways to avoid interacting with public sewage, and reminded myself that nothing can be as gross as wading through 3/4" of human ka-ka at a Xi'an rest stop. I was a little worried that I might need to stand for several hours, but reasoned that the purchase of standing room must be a thing of the past.

I was a bit surprised at some of the comments people made.  The train will be full of Chinese? No joke Sherlock, WE LIVE IN CHINA.  And why complain about farmers? City-folk are definitely more comfortable around foreigners, but country-folk can be really friendly!  I gave several committal, "Oh, hmmm..." kind of responses, and got even more excited for whatever adventure I was about to encounter.

I finished packing at 1am (which is incredibly early for me) and stayed up until 3am, trying to iron out the perfect color scheme for a new blog.***  I was very proud to check every single thing off my list. Laundry folded. Check. Fridge emptied.  Check.  Apartment clean, swept, bleach poured in the toilet bowl.  Check, check, CHECK!  Could anyone be more accomplished than I?  I topped of preparation perfection with a leisurely breakfast with friends and posed for a picture with my very full backpack.****

Navigating a bus or train station is always easier than I anticipate.  Once upon a time, the idea of finding a platform without knowing the local language ranged from daunting to frightening.  If you ever find yourself lost in a terminal where no one speaks English, this is what you do:

          1. Show your ticket to someone in uniform

          2. Walk toward where they point

          3. If you have not reached your desired destination, repeat steps 1 & 2

After that, switch into lemming mode and follow your fellow passengers.  That's it.  No panic necessary.  China has brought out my inner lemming, so I wasn't nervous about finding my train. However, this is my first solo international trip, so I cut myself extra time. Plenty of time. Too much time.  TWO HOURS of extra time.  But there are worse things.

I rounded the corner resolutely optimistic, ready to take on my shabby, crazy train adventure.  I was greeted with row upon row of happy little red and yellow striped trains slowly pulling in and out of the station as neatly coiffed conductors with long blue coats and sharp hats helped milling people find the correct car.  I wanted to take a picture, but didn't want to break the traffic flow as I lemminged my way to my car.

I did not share a small seat with Li.  My seat mates were Lacy and her boyfriend.*****  Lacy had remarkably good English, and she acted as my unofficial interpreter during the trip.   In the past 8 hours, I've exchanged travel photos with Lacy, bought and consumed long kon, and played "Mafia" using a weird mix of Chinese and English.

[For those familiar with the game, when it was MY turn to be the killer, and they accused me, my defense went something like this, "Just because I'm a foreigner, it doesn't mean that I'm a murderer." They laughed so hard, especially when they found out I WAS guilty,]

Other highlights included an ugly fist-fight about 5-6 rows in front of me, an aspiring admirer who tried to give me fruit, and re my seat mates how to play Egyptian Ratscrew.  Our remarkable deck of cards had three makeshift cards made out of an envelope. The game got so loud and involved that we drew a small crowd of spectators as we steamed up the windows. 

11:40PM

Lily is sleeping on her boyfriend, her head covered with a coat like a bird that's been put to sleep for the night.  He has a red horse stuffed animal under his arm, probably a gift for someone back home.  It IS the year of the horse, after all.  A man in front of me is peeling an apple with a penknife.  Considering the amount of natural cushion I have, this seat is remarkably hard.

12:30AM

I'm growing perturbed about the loud TV show people are playing, but I think Uncle is fixing it. I might I love him.  It's starting to get cold.  I wonder if I'll wake up to snow...

I did NOT wake up to snow, but I did watch a hot pink sun rise a set out opposite sides of the train that day.  The K-train was not at all as terrible as people made it out to be.  However, sitting for 32 hours is surprisingly painful.  I really lucked out with my seat mates: 3 recent college graduates, and 4 middleaged people.  I was seated away from the wall, which made sleeping impossible.  The older people had an unofficial rotation going on, swapping seats so others could take a turn leaning against the wall, or putting their head on the table.  Somewhere in the haze after midnight and before dawn, i got put into that rotation by the grace of God and the good hearts of the Chinese people.

By the end of the trip, I felt very Chinese. I had encountered every major, common cultural clash and didnt really feel fazed.  Squatty-potties on the train, questions about age and marital status, being stared at (literally) for hours by people who had no intention of talking to me, questions about how much I spent on things,****** giving and receiving food to and from strangers, getting photos taken, an impressing people with my mad chopstick skills.  My Chinese cellphone always gets me points for being in-the-know too.  Sometimes I feel like a celebrity in one of those articles you see in tabloids: They drink coffee like us! They buy toilet paper like us! They take their kids to the park like us!  This trip was one of those times.  With help from Lacy, I chatted with the older people. They seemed tentative at first, but by the time we got to Haerbin, they approved of me.*******

My taxi driver was a bit of a stinker, and my hotel room is...worthy of its own blog post, but 12 hours of sleep fixed the world.  My ToD experience, while quite memorable, wasn't nearly as awful as I anticipated.  I'm thankful I didn't manage to lose that last 10lbs - goodness knows I needed it to survive the hard seat! 

Stay tuned for more adventures....

*Train of Doom hereafter referred to as ToD.

** This part of my nightmare was inspired by my real-life story of traveling the length of Thailand curled up in the fetal position for 13 hours on a bus with no shocks that blasted bad rave music through the dead of night with an interior lit by neon purple lights.  True story.

***I have an excellent sense of priorities.

**** For the record, I did NOT overpack. Temperatures in Haerbin have been ranging from -30 to -9 C. Warm clothes are excessively fluffy

*****That's not entirely accurate. Her name was Lacey Li....but you get my point.

******Specifically my boots, which I was REALLY proud of! I shopped all ocer two cities to find goosnow boots made out of leather and wool that were waterproof, cheap, and large enough to fit my feet. This is surprisingly difficult to do, and I ended up with a pair of man-ish, yet comfortable boots for around $38 USD. Two men around my Dad's age were checking them out, so I unzipped the side to show them the lining. One guy felt the wool, and they asked the price. When I told them, they nodded in approval of my great shopping skills, and told me they were good quality. WIN!

*******You know a Chinese person has accepted you if they pat you on the arm or shoulder, or if they give you something to eat.