Friday, October 26, 2012

The Only Quiet Place in China




I feel like I’ve just stepped into the twilight zone – I’m in a quiet room.  In earlier posts I talked about the oppressively high volume of everything in China.  The dorms are open and loud, and the restaurants and tea shops are really just for eating, not parking with books.  I knew my students study, but I couldn’t figure out where.

In America, libraries are full of books.  In China, libraries are full of students.  The first floor is filled with books.  The space on the second floor is split evenly between books and students, and the third floor doesn’t have any books at all – just one massive, open, silent room, full of students.  There are maybe 150-200 people in a room the size of a small basketball court or two mammoth choir rooms, and no one is talking.  Apparently ‘studying together’ in China means studying in the same place, not speaking with one another about class content.

This is the first time I’ve felt overwhelmed by my singular whiteness.  Maybe it’s because it’s so quiet.  Or maybe it’s because every face is down and I was surprised with a sea of black hair when I expected books.  As awkward and strange as this is – it’s also so CALM.  I love it!  My phone just went off – so awkward!  I feel the tension seeping out of my shoulders now that I’ve found a place where the loudest sound is a backpack zipper or muted cough.  This is fantastic…    

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

A friend lent me a book when I got here called, "101 Stories for Foreigners to Understand Chinese People," by Yi S. Ellis and Bryan D. Ellis.  I wish there was a book like this for every culture.  It's already helped me understand soooo many things better.  I've avoided a couple of faux pas, and shown cultural savvy (a couple of times) because of this book.

If you do business with Chinese people, teach Chinese students or are just curious, I highly suggest you read this book.  It's simple and entertaining - I downed it in two days.

ISBN 978-7-5382-8109-5

Monday, October 22, 2012

Awkward Moments

I expected to experience new things in China: tastes, smells, sounds, sights, confusions.  But equally new and surprisingly unexpected are the awkward exchanges between me and Chinese people.  Something will happen, the Chinese person will walk away, and my inner child is left squishing up her face saying, 'Wait. What? Hold on now - WHAT just happened?'  Then I tuck away my anecdote, pat the inner child on the head, and go on with my day.

Sound a little vague?  Lemme 'splain.


I hate my phone, but at least
it's purple and sparkly.
During my first week here, I went to the store with my friend while he bought a phone.  He was busy with the culture student (college students with AWESOME English and extra knowledge of American culture who often help us translate) so I practiced my pantomime skills and discussed the price of iphones in America with the store employees.  The girls got really excited and asked to take pictures with me (of course).  They pulled me really close - friendship in China is high contact - talked about my makeup and then one brave soul leaned in close...and very gently touched my eyelashes.  Then I heard Michael (the culture student gasp) and yell 'No!' and I thought, 'Yup, that happened.'  Poor guy.  I thought he was gonna have a heart attack.


China was a closed country for so long that the sight of foreigners is still relatively new.  People are used to seeing the laowai on campus, but a trip into town reminds me that I'm definitely the 'other.'  I constantly see people sneaking pictures of their white friend (ie: they saw me on the street) or suddenly grabbing me for pictures.  Sometimes people push their young children at me for pictures, like a tourist attraction.  The brave ones hold up two shaky fingers in a peace sign and stare wide-eyed into the camera.  And yes, I've had children run away in fear.  Who does that?  Geez, in MY country we only forced children to take pictures with fat old men in red furry suits or people dressed like giant bunnies.  Because that's not frightening at all....

---> The next section is about a squattie potty.  Avoid if you are faint of heart or an overly visual thinker.

I think the most awkward moment I've had with a stranger so far was at a rest stop on the way to Xi'an. Squattie potties are inherently awkward, and usually filthy and smelly. (I will never complain at an American rest stop ever again.)  Sometimes there are no doors on the stalls, or they don't lock, or won't shut.  Depending on the line and sense of urgency, sometimes you just suck it up and discreetly take care of business.  (Chinese women don't seem to care, so you adapt, right?)  Anyways, I was traveling to Xi'an when this very situation presented itself.  My priority was all about completing business, so I opted to blitz through the crowd to a stall without a door.  A Chinese woman took that opportunity to stare straight into my eyes....and I couldn't get away.  I tried to shoot her a look that communicated something along the lines of 'Surely this is a mistake...' But she maintained a direct and intent study of my face.  The. Whole. Time.  All of my friends stood with their mouths hanging open, and tried to build a human shield as best they could.  I feel like all people know that direct eye contact is not okay when someone is...busy.  Utterly flabbergasting!  Back on the bus I was speechless, (a miracle!) but that's okay, because my friends told the whole bus....groan...  Yeah, maybe I shouldn't post this, but it was SO absurd!

---> End of the potty part.

I was back at my favorite coffee shop the other day, and a teenage girl found me interesting, so she watched me from the table next to me.  She tried to talk to me, but she didn't speak any English, so she kept staring.  Then she walked over to the wall divider by my table, rested her chin on her hand, her face maybe 20 inches away from my face, watching.  Maybe 20 minutes went by as I tried to work.  So very disconcerting.  I go to this shop to get away from people who could distract me from my grading.  Focus fail.  In hindsight, the girl may have been a little mentally impaired, but it wasn't glaringly apparent.  Still, the proximity made it really awkward.



All kinds of strange things happen here, but a special few leave me with that unique, slightly blank feeling and the thought, 'Yes. Yes, that just happened.'  Some of them are purely cultural differences.  Others happen because people allow curiosity to override manners.  I'm sure I've been guilty of that more than once in my life, and I'm sure people could easily provide examples!  At the end of the day you just put your face in your hands, laugh, take your inner child by the hand and move along.

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Wishing for Cider

It's October, and I think fall is here.  The weather is cold 
enough to wear jeans and coats, but not scarves or sweaters.  The air is a little cooler, but it doesn't have that clear, crisp, chill that brings out wool pea coats.  I miss apple cider with cinnamon.  We just moved through apple season, so there's plenty of apples, but no cinnamon! Bummer...  I'll be excited to get a new winter coat though. =)


Sunday, October 14, 2012

Questions, Answers, and Turning Points

When I was 17, I took a class called Honors American Studies which was a blend of English and History.  Toward the end of the year we were told to write a paper based on the life of a historical figure.  We were told to identify the 'turning point' of the person's life and base the paper on that thesis. It was a bit difficult to use an occurrence as a thesis, but the assignment did serve to launch me on a deeper level of introspection almost immediately.  I wondered "What will my 'turning point' be? What do I want it to be? Do I have any say over this?"  It didn't take me long to realize that you can't choose which events will be significant in your life.  Memorable words are seldom platitudes, phases can be as significant as events, and who you choose to become is as much a part of your identity as your immediate inclinations are.  I realized then that I will never be able to identify my own 'turning point,' if there even is such a thing.  Only in hindsight can a person see the importance of events and patterns that guide a life.

I've always felt a sense of urgency to do well, to do right, to be thorough.  These are good things, but the urgency is noted by people around me.  Those who don't like it say I'm intense, driven, OCD, over-the-top, intimidating, and stubborn.  People who like it say I'm confident, thorough, detailed, passionate, persistent, and strong.  All I know is that God's given me two deep desires: to know, and to protect.

I love Ecclesiastes because it talks about the God-given thirst for understanding and how He keeps it forever beyond our grasp.  I know that this paradox exists to keep me in a listening posture, but some questions circle around like a familiar echo, sometimes intriguing, sometimes reminding me of the empty places where answers should be.

I expect this year to be a turning point.  Maybe I'll be told to stay.  Maybe I'll be told to return.  Maybe I'll be told to go somewhere else.  But maybe this will be just another year.  Maybe there will be no big revelation.  I don't get to decide when and where those happen.  I know that I'm in a position of listening and following, and that toys with my independent, driven spirit.


Before I left America, a good friend gave me a song by Britt Nicole.  I had never heard it before, but I knew it belonged to me from the first time I heard it.  There are so many layers of meaning, but what's striking me at the moment are these lines:

"And I'll stop searching for the answers,
I'll stop praying for an escape,
And I'll trust you, God, with where I am,
And believe that You will have your way."

I honestly don't know if I can do this, actually stop looking for answers.  My curiosity and drive are so strong.  I believe God will have His way with me - I just want to know what it is and if I'm doing well.

This post may sound sad.  I don't feel very sad, there are just things I wish I had clearer answers about.  Until I have them, I just remind myself that life is clearer in hindsight, and that following is sometimes more important than answers.

"Even if my dreams have died,
And even if I don't survive,
I'll still worship You with all my life."

Friday, October 12, 2012

Snapshot Page

I've just created a new page on my blog entitled 'snapshots.'  These are one-liners that come to me, kind of like a status update on facebook.  Take a look if my regular posts are too verbose....haha....that rhymed....

Wretched Edibles


If you know me, you know that I love food.  All kinds of food.  Coming from a long line of inventive cooks makes you believe that any food can be redeemed.  Until moving to China there was only one food I couldn’t manage to swallow: raw zucchini.

(Notice the qualifier?  RAW zucchini.  Yes, I’m aware that zucchini bread rocks, zucchini relish is creative, and broiled zucchini is fall staple, but I cannot manage to swallow that crud raw.)

26 years, and there’s only one thing on the never-never list.

THEN I MOVED TO CHINA.

Preface:  I love the food here!  So creative and different, the best comfort food, ridiculous variety-- I’ve been blown away by how great the food is.  But some things….should just never be.

#1.  Sea Cucumber


I was aware that people eat sea cucumber in China, so when I saw a translucent tentacle-ish thing at an elegant banquet, I was eager to try it.  Imagine a dense jello that tastes like water and slides down with all the elegance of a rubber glove.  It was like eating a tense jelly-fish.  You’re not sure whether to chew, slurp, mush, or just swallow the thing whole and pretend like it never happened.



#2.  Things shaped like eyeballs


During my second week here I went out to hotpot with a group of experienced teachers.  Hotpot is a fantastic eating experience, delicious, social, interactive – all the fun of fondue without the peril of boiling oil.  In my individual bowl of broth there was a random assortment of veggies and spices to which I added meat, mushrooms, and more vegetables.  About halfway through the meal I found a mystery item – something round, slightly translucent, with a thin skin about the size of a quail’s egg.  It struck me as looking vaguely like an eyeball, but I chose to think of it as a marinated quail egg and just eat it.  Then it popped in my mouth.  Grittiness.  End of story.  Add to the never-never list: check.



#3.  Stinky Tofu
People have compared stinky tofu to a cheese before, a fermented food product that smells, but still tastes delicious.  The first time you smell stinky tofu, you expect to stumble over a corpse somewhere, and that’s saying something once you realize it smells worse than the garbage lying mounded in the summer sun.  As I child, I hated dog-duty.  (Yup, the doody-duty.)  Summer was the worst because of the combination of dirt, dried grass, and doody.  Imagine that smell combined with fetid diapers and corpse-ish-ness.  And then imagine putting it in your mouth.  WHY WOULD ANY SANE PERSON DO THAT????  I got some by accident on my last day in Xi’an.  It was disguised by soup and some benign-looking chicken.  The taste?  A whole lot like the smell.  I tried a few bites for politeness’s sake, but I have to say again, WHY WOULD A PERSON EVER PUT THAT IN THEIR MOUTH?? And on PURPOSE?!
If you feel like I’m being judgmental, then you are absolutely correct.  I have adventured, experienced, tasted, and judged that these vile things will never pass my lips again.

(Jesus, you hold the one trump card, but PLEASE, let this plate pass.)

Sunshine Boys and Happiness Girls


My students have a weekly “English Journal” assignment.  They talk in English for an hour, then write a few sentences down about their conversation.  The lower level students tend to talk about the same things every week: what they ate, what sports they played, and how much they love their friends.  The higher level student might talk about goals and aspirations, politics, philosophy, or describe their perspective on life values.  (Reading these journals also makes me realize what a poor language student I was in high school.  My journals must have been torturous to read.)  This first unit has been all about descriptions of nouns (person place or thing, for those of you who haven’t taken English in a while).  I really enjoyed the ‘Describing People’ week.  I spent the first half of class teaching vocab: tall, short, fat, skinny, blonde, brunette, curly, wavy...  We played games for the second half of class, describing various pictures and guessing who was who.  I figured that if I was going to look at the same people all week, I might as well look at people I liked…so I printed out pictures of a variety of people, and put up a few of my favorites!  It was so funny to hear my Chinese students’ perception of different people in my world, and it was even funnier to hear their gasps of astonishment when I told them, ‘This is my dad, this is my best friend, this is my boss…’ and they realized they had been talking freely about people I cared about!

I started noticing trends in the descriptions throughout the week as I listened in class, and read about the ideal man/woman in their English Journals.  My take-away Chinglish phrases of the week were “I am a happiness girl,” and “He is my sunshine boy.”  Happiness girls and sunshine boys – what a darling image.

Couples watching in China is fascinating.  The most striking (and initially disconcerting) feature of Chinese couples: they match.  Not their faces – their clothes.  Then I started noticing that female friends also wore matching outfits.  At first I thought they were work uniforms, but oh no.  From the panda sweatshirt down to the buckled shoes, they match to a T.  (Ok, boys and girls wear different shoes, but the rest of the outfit will match.)  In fact, many items are sold as sets.  When I was shopping for a watch (a necessary purchase when you have a stinky phone) there were several that were sold as his/hers matching sets.  I asked a Chinese student if it was a sign of a deeply committed relationship.  She said, “No, we just buy it.  He will buy it for you.”  Then there’s the purse holding.  In China, a boyfriend will carry his girlfriend’s purse for her.  There’s nothing un-masculine about it; he’s taking care of his lady.  I HAVE heard of cases where a boyfriend will carry his own matching purse.   ….yeah, I think that crosses a line.

At first, my American vision saw this as bizarre and vaguely creepy.  However, the more I see it, the more it strikes me as incredibly sweet.  I can’t begin to describe how stressful the dating process is in America.  Does he/she like me?  If I tell her, will it be too strong/nonchalant/needy/cold/vague/demanding/blah blah blah blah… There’s a void where dating protocol should be (unless you court, which creates immediate and intense expectations), leading to a whole lot of vagueness, misunderstandings, and a lack of willingness for either person to simply stand up and say, “Hey.  I like you. Do you want to go out?”  When I look at Chinese couples, I see people who are clearly telling the world,


“I like THIS ONE.  I want to be with them.  I like being associated with them.  I want us to be similar.  I want us to belong to each other.  I will invest my hard-earned kuai into building a connection with this person so that everyone can see without a shadow of a doubt that I love them.”


There is something to be said for that.

There are many things about my dearest friends that I would love to emulate, but we strive to be different and unique.  We consider it a confidence to tell a person, ‘I want to be like you.’  Why is that?  The process of Chinese wooing is pretty amazing; flowers, presents, fireworks just to make a girl to smile…of course girls see their men as ‘sunshine boys!’ 

I was talking about this with a friend the other day, and she asked me if I was going to match with a boyfriend someday.  HECK NO!  But I do have my eye on an awesome watch set…  I’m an American girl.  I don’t expect a man to carry my purse, and I kinda really don’t want him to wear the same outfit as me.  Something about it just doesn’t scream “MASCULINE.”  But I would gladly trade in the vague haze of interest for a straightforward statement.  Coming from the right person, that alone would make me a happiness girl.     



**It is also interesting to note that yang (as in yin-yang) is a masculine feng-shui element associated with the color white, metal, the sun, and warmth.  I believe that a ‘sunshine boy’ is a way of describing a truly masculine, warm, man.